The game of casino blackjack, or 21, is by far the most popular table game offered in gambling establishments. If you are unfamiliar with the rules of casino blackjack, or simply need some clarification on the finer points, you've come to the right place! This page will tell you everything you need to know to play the game, and describe the various rules that can differ from one casino to another.
If you are just learning the game, you can read this document straight through. If you are looking for a specific answer to a question, just use the table of contents below to jump straight to the section of interest. Note to international visitors: The currency amounts and chip colors mentioned on this page are written from the viewpoint of a visitor to a casino in the United States, but all other information here should be applicable around the world.

1.0: Casino Basics

1.1: Choosing a table

1.2: Buying chips

1.3: Making a bet

1.4: Cashing in

2.1: Premise of the game

2.2: Values of the cards

2.3: The deal of the cards

2.4: How the dealer plays his hand

2.5: What is a Blackjack, or a natural?

3.1: Surrender

3.2: Hitting/Standing

3.3: Doubling Down

3.4: Splitting Pairs

3.5: Insurance and Even Money

1.1: Choosing a table
Before playing the game, you'll need to find an appropriate table at which
to play.  If you're a newcomer to this process, there are a few items
to keep in mind.  You'll want to pay attention to several details
about each table that you approach.  The most important item is the
sign declaring betting limits.  Both the minimum and the maximum allowable
bets should be clearly posted on a sign on the table-top.  Look around
to find a table that suits your bet sizes.  Often, you'll find that
the lower limit ($3 or $5) tables are quite crowded.  In most casinos,
the signs are color-coded to match the minimum bets posted on them: 

Red for $5, Green for $25, and Black for $100 minimum tables.  Next,
you'll want to make sure that the table you have selected is actually for
blackjack, and not another of the various table games offered at the casino. 
Blackjack tables will almost certainly have the phrase "Blackjack pays
3 to 2" printed on the table felt.  The next item to observe is the
type of game being dealt.  Beginners are usually better off playing
the "shoe" games where 6 or 8 decks are used.  The advantage for beginners
in this game is that all of the player's cards are dealt face-up in front
of each player, and the dealer can help with playing questions and decisions. 
Notice: Once you become proficient at the game, you might want to switch to a
game with fewer decks. The casino's advantage is lower with fewer decks in
play.  But for now, let's stick with the multi-deck games for the
ease-of-play advantage.
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1.2: Buying chips
Once you are seated at a table, you'll need to purchase some chips from
the dealer for your bets.  Wait for a break in the action, and place
your cash out in front of you on the table felt.  (Some casinos might
make you wait until the dealer shuffles to join the game.)  An appropriate
buy-in amount is anywhere from 10 to 20 times your average bet.  If
you are a $5 bettor, this means a buy-in of  $50-$100 is typical. 

Don't try to hand your cash to the dealer.  For security reasons,
he can't take anything from your hands.  Simply lay the cash on the
table; he'll pick it up and change it for an equal value of playing chips. 
You won't be getting any change back either.  He'll change the entire
amount, push the chips across the table to you, and then drop the cash
into a slot in the table top.  Chip colors are fairly standardized
in the casino industry, with red chips representing $5, green chips representing
$25, and black chips representing $100.  You'll also see $1 value
chips (usually white) or $1 tokens (silver) on the table as well. 
Some casinos also use a $2.50 chip that is usually pink in color.  
Chip colors above the $100 denomination vary widely, with purple a common
choice for $500 chips.  Take a quick look at the chips to make sure
that you know the values, and that you were given the correct amount for
your cash.   If you have any questions, just ask the dealer. 
Part of his job is to help players learn the game.
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1.3: Making a bet
On the table felt in front of your position, you'll find a circle or box
for your bets.  Before each hand begins, place your desired bet into
the circle in one stack.  If you are betting multiple denominations
of chips, place the larger valued chips on the bottom of the stack, and
the smaller value chips on top.  Once the cards have been dealt, you
aren't allowed to touch the bet in the circle.  If you need to know
how much you have bet for doubling or splitting (explained later), the
dealer will count down the chips for you.  Once the hand is over,
the dealer will move around the table to each position in turn, paying
winners and collecting the chips from losing hands.  After the dealer
has paid you, you can remove your chips from the circle, and place your
next bet.  If you want to let your winnings ride, you'll need to form
one stack of chips from the two or more stacks on the table after the dealer
pays you.  Remember, big chips should be placed on the bottom.
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1.4: Cashing in
When you're finished playing, you'll want to take your chips to the cashier
to exchange them for cash.  If you have groups of smaller denomination
chips in front of you, the dealer will probably want to "color up" your
chips.  This simply means exchanging groups of smaller denomination
chips for larger valued chips.  Wait until the end of a hand, then
simply push your chips out in front of you between the betting boxes, so
it can't be confused for a bet.  The dealer will count down the chips,
and return to you a smaller stack of chips of equal value.  You can
take these to the cashier for cash, or to another table for more play.
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2.1: Premise of the game
The basic premise of the game is that you want to have a hand value that
is closer to 21 than that of the dealer, without going over 21.  Other
players at the table are of no concern.  Your hand is strictly played
out against the hand of the dealer.  The rules of play for the dealer
are strictly dictated, leaving no decisions up to the dealer.  Therefore,
there is not a problem with the dealer or any of the other players at the
table seeing the cards in your hand.  Indeed, if you're playing at
a shoe game, the player cards are all dealt face up.  In any event,
when you're just learning to play, don't hesitate to show the dealer or
other players your cards and ask questions.
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2.2: Values of the cards
In blackjack, the cards are valued as follows:

   An Ace can count as either 1 or 11, as demonstrated below.

   The cards from 2 through 9 are valued as indicated.

   The 10, Jack, Queen, and King are all valued at 10.

The suits of the cards do not have any meaning in the game.

The value of a hand is simply the sum of the point counts of each card
in the hand.  For example, a hand containing (5,7,9) has the value
of 21.  The Ace can be counted as either 1 or 11.  You need not
specify which value the Ace has.  It's assumed to always have the
value that makes the best hand.  An example will illustrate: 

Suppose that you have the beginning hand (Ace, 6).  This hand can
be either 7 or 17.  If you stop there, it will be 17.  Let's
assume that you draw another card to the hand and now have (Ace, 6, 3). 
Your total hand is now 20, counting the Ace as 11.   Let's backtrack
and assume that you had instead drawn a third card which was an 8. 
The hand is now (Ace, 6, 8) which totals 15.  Notice that now the
Ace must be counted as only 1 to avoid going over 21.

A hand that contains an Ace is called a "soft" total if the Ace can
be counted as either 1 or 11 without the total going over 21.  For
example (Ace, 6) is a soft 17.  The description stems from the fact
that the player can always draw another card to a soft total with no danger
of  "busting" by going over 21.  The hand (Ace,6,10) on the other
hand is a "hard" 17, since now the Ace must be counted as only 1, again
because counting it as 11 would make the hand go over 21.
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2.3: The deal of the cards
Once all the bets are made, the dealer will deal the cards to the players. 
He'll make two passes around the table starting at his left (your right)
so that the players and the dealer have two cards each. (European and Australian
players: See exception at the bottom of this section.)  The dealer
will flip one of his cards over, exposing its value.
In the shoe games, the players cards will be dealt face-up, and the
players are not allowed to touch the cards.  If you're just beginning,
you'll probably want to start at the shoe game where you don't have to worry
about handling the cards.
In the hand-held games, the player's cards are dealt face down, and
the players pick up the cards.  When handling the cards in a hand-held
game, here are a few important things to remember.


You are only allowed to touch the cards with one hand.  If you're
a poker player, this can take some effort to break old habits!

You must keep the cards over the table.

Any cards that the dealer subsequently deals to your hand must be left
on the table, not added to the cards in your hand.

Once the cards are dealt, play proceeds around the table, starting at the
first seat to the dealer's left, also called first base.  Each player
in turn indicates to the dealer how he wishes to play the hand.  The
various player decisions are covered in their own section below. 

After each player has finished his hand, the dealer will complete his hand,
and then pay or collect the player bets.

Now, the exception I mentioned:  Some casinos, mostly in Europe,
give the dealer only one card face up until all the players have finished their hands.  The dealer then deals
his second card, and finishes his hand.  This is called the European
No Hole Card rule.  This can change a player's strategy if, and only
if,  the dealer collects all player bets in the event of a dealer
blackjack.  Some casinos that deal only one card at first to the dealer
will refund any double-down or split bets if the dealer turns out to have
a blackjack.  This type of no hole card rule does not have any effect
on the player's optimal strategy, and should not be described as European
No Hole Card rules.
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2.4: How the dealer plays his hand
The dealer must play his hand in a specific way, with no choices allowed. 
There are two popular rule variations that determine what totals the dealer
must draw to.   In any given casino, you can tell which rule
is in effect by looking at the blackjack tabletop.  It should be clearly
labeled with one of these rules:

 

"Dealer stands on all 17s":  This is the most common rule.  In
this case, the dealer must continue to take cards ("hit") until his total
is 17 or greater.  An Ace in the dealer's hand is always counted as
11 if possible without the dealer going over 21.  For example, (Ace,8)
would be 19 and the dealer would stop drawing cards ("stand").  Also,
(Ace,6) is 17 and again the dealer will stand.  (Ace,5) is only 16,
so the dealer would hit.  He will continue to draw cards until the
hand's value is 17 or more.  For example, (Ace,5,7) is only 13 so
he hits again.  (Ace,5,7,5) makes 18 so he would stop ("stand") at
that point.

 

"Dealer hits soft 17":  Some casinos use this rule variation instead. 
This rule is identical except for what happens when the dealer has a soft
total of 17.  Hands such as (Ace,6),  (Ace,5,Ace), and (Ace,
2, 4) are all examples of soft 17.  The dealer hits these hands, and
stands on soft 18 or higher, or hard 17 or higher.  When this rule
is used, the house advantage against the players is slightly increased.

Again, the dealer has no choices to make in the play of his hand. 
He cannot split pairs, but must instead simply hit until he reaches at
least 17 or busts by going over 21.
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2.5: What is a Blackjack, or a natural?
A blackjack, or natural, is a total of 21 in your first two cards. 
A blackjack is therefore an Ace and any ten-valued card, with the additional
requirement that these be your first two cards.  If you split a pair
of Aces for example, and then draw a ten-valued card on one of the Aces,
this is not a blackjack, but rather a total of 21.  The distinction
is important, because a winning blackjack pays the player odds of 3 to
2.  A bet of $10 wins $15 if the player makes a blackjack.  A
player blackjack beats any dealer total other than a dealer's blackjack,
including a dealer's regular 21.  If both a player and the dealer
make blackjack, the hand is a tie or push.

The dealer will usually pay your winning blackjack bet immediately when
it is your turn to play.  In the face down games, this means that
you should show the blackjack to the dealer at that time.  Some casinos
may postpone paying the blackjack until after the hand is over if the dealer
has a 10 card up and has not checked for a dealer blackjack.  Other
casinos check under both 10 and Ace dealer upcards, and would therefore
pay the blackjack immediately.  Regardless, when you are dealt a blackjack,
turn the cards face up, and smile.  It only happens about once every
21 hands, but it accounts for a lot of the fun of the game.

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3.1: Surrender
We start with one of the least common decisions, but it is appropriate to begin
with surrender, because this decision must be made before any other choice about
playing your hand. Not every game offers surrender, and those that do fall
into two categories which bear expanation: Early vs Late.
Surrender offers you as a player the choice to fold your hand, at the cost
of half of the original bet. You must make that decision prior to taking any
other action on the hand. For example, once you draw a third card, or split,
or double down, surrender is no longer an option.
The two varieties of surrender, early and late, differ only in the way
a dealer blackjack is handled. In an early surrender game, a player may
choose to surrender before the dealer checks his cards for a blackjack,
offering a cheap way out even if the dealer turns out to have a blackjack.
Because this offers a healthy advantage to the player, this version (early
surrender) is rarely offered. The much more common variation is late
surrender, where the dealer checks for blackjack first, and then only if he
does not have blackjack will allow players to surrender their hands.
Surrender is a nice rule to have available for players who use it wisely.
Unfortunately, many players surrender far too many hands. If you play in a
game with surrender, use the Strategy Engine to determine when surrender is
the appropriate play. To see how bad a hand must be to properly be surrendered,
consider the following: To lose less with surrender, you must be only 25%
likely to win the hand (ignoring pushes). That is, if you lose 75% of the time,
and win only 25% of the time, your net loss is about 50% of your bets, equal
to the amount you'll lose guaranteed by surrendering. So, learn to use the
surrender option, but make sure you know when it is appropriate.
It's worth mentioning again that the vast majority of surrender is LATE
surrender, after the dealer checks for BJ. Make sure you choose the right
option over on the Strategy Engine. And if you do find a game that offers
early surrender, drop me a note. Good opportunities like that are rare.

 

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3.2: Hitting/Standing
The most common decision a player must make during the game is whether
to draw another card to the hand ("hit"), or stop at the current total
("stand").  The method you use to indicate your decisions to the dealer
depend on which kind of game you are playing.

 

In the face-up shoe game, you indicate that you want another card by
tapping the table behind your cards with a finger.  You'll be required
to make the hand signals, rather than just announcing "hit" or "stand"
to the dealer.  This is to eliminate any confusion or ambiguity in
what you choose, and also for the benefit of the ever-present surveillance
cameras.  If you go over 21, or "bust", the dealer will collect your
bet, and remove your cards from the table immediately.  When you decide
to stand, just wave your hand in a horizontal motion over your cards.

In the face-down game, things are a little different.  You'll hold
the first two cards with one hand.  To draw another card to your hand,
simply scrape your cards across the table felt lightly.  Watch another
player at first to see how this works.  The dealer will deal your
additional cards on the table in front of your bet.  Add them to your
total hand value, but leave the actual cards on the table.  If you
go over 21, just toss the two cards in your hand face up on the table. 

The dealer will collect your bet, and discard your hand.  When you
decide to stand, you should tuck the two cards you are holding face-down
under the chips that you have bet.  This can be a bit tricky the first
few times.  Don't pick up the bet to place the cards underneath. 
Remember, once the cards are dealt, you can't touch the chips in the circle. 
Simply slide the corner of the cards under the chips.

 
The descriptions are a lot tougher than the actual play.  Just pay
attention to what other players are doing and you'll fit right in.

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3.3: Doubling Down
Among the more profitable player options available is the choice to "double
down".  This can only be done with a two card hand, before another
card has been drawn.  Doubling down allows you to double your bet
and receive one, and only one, additional card to the hand.  A good
example of a doubling opportunity is when you hold a total of 11, say a
(6,5) against a dealer's upcard of 5.  In this case, you have a good
chance of winning the hand by drawing one additional card, so you might
as well increase your bet in this advantageous situation.  If you
are playing in a face-down game, just toss the two cards face-up on the
table in front of your bet.  In either type of game,  add an
additional bet to the betting circle.  Place the additional bet adjacent
to the original bet, not on top of it.  The dealer will deal one additional
card to the hand.  In the face-down game, he'll probably tuck it face-down
under your bet, to be revealed later.
Players are allowed to double down for any amount up to the original
bet amount, so you could double down "for less" if you wanted.  Just
remember that you do give up something for being allowed to increase your
bet:  the ability to draw more than one additional card.  If
the correct play is to double down, you should always double for the full
amount if possible.

The question of when it is appropriate to double down is easily answered
by using the Blackjack Basic Strategy Engine at the home
page
of this site.

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3.4: Splitting Pairs

When you are dealt a matching pair of cards (remember, ignore the suits),
you have the ability to split the hand into two separate hands, and play
them independently.  Let's say you are dealt a pair of eights for
a total of sixteen.  Sixteen is the worst possible player hand, since
it is unlikely to win as is, but is very likely to bust if you draw to
it.  Here's a great chance to improve a bad situation.

If you are playing a hand-held game, toss the cards face-up in front
of your bet just like a double down.  Then, in either type of game,
place a matching bet beside the original bet in the circle.  Note
that you must bet the same amount on a split, unlike a double-down, where
you are allowed to double for less.  The dealer will separate the
two cards, and treat them as two independent hands.  Let's say you
draw a 3 on the first 8, for a total of 11.  Many casinos will allow
you to double down on that hand total of 11 at this point.  When this
is allowed, the rule is called "Double after Split", predictably enough. 

Regardless, you can play the first hand to completion, at which point the
dealer will deal a second card to the second hand, and you can begin making
play decisions on it.

If you get additional pairs (in the first two cards of a hand), most
casinos will allow you to resplit, making yet another hand.  The most
common rule allows a player to split up to 3 times, making 4 separate hands,
with 4 separate bets.  If double after split is allowed, you could
have up to 8 times your initial bet on the table if you chose!  Some
casinos restrict resplitting, and some allow unlimited splitting. 
Another fine point is that you are allowed to split any 10-valued cards,
so you could split a (Jack, Queen) hand.  However, this is usually
a bad play: Keep the 20.

The other complication for pair splits concerns splitting Aces. 
Splitting Aces is a very strong player move, so the casino restricts you
to drawing only one additional card on each Ace.  Also, if you draw
a ten-valued card on one of your split Aces, the hand is not considered
a Blackjack, but is instead treated as a normal 21, and therefore does
not collect 3:2 odds.  Some casinos allow resplitting Aces if you
draw another, while many do not allow resplitting Aces although they often
do allow resplitting of any other pairs.  With all these restrictions,
you may wonder whether it makes sense to split Aces.  The answer is
a resounding YES.  Always split pairs of Aces.
For accurate pair splitting advice, consult the Strategy Engine on the
home page
.

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3.5: Insurance and Even Money
Insurance is perhaps the least understood of all the commonly available
rules for Blackjack.  This is not necessarily a bad thing because
the insurance bet is normally a poor bet for the player, with a high house
advantage.  However, that's not always the case.  So, here we
go:

If the dealer turns an up-card of an Ace, he will offer "Insurance"
to the players.  Insurance bets can be made by betting up to half
your original bet amount in the insurance betting stripe in front of your
bet.  The dealer will check to see if he has a 10-value card underneath
his Ace, and if he does have Blackjack, your winning Insurance bet will
be paid at odds of 2:1.  You'll lose your original bet of course (unless
you also have a Blackjack), so the net effect is that you break even (assuming
you bet the full half bet for insurance.)  This is why the bet is
described as "insurance", since it seems to protect your original bet against
a dealer blackjack.  Of course, if the dealer does not have blackjack,
you'll lose the insurance bet, and still have to play the original bet
out.

In the simplest description, Insurance is a side-bet, where you are
offered 2:1 odds that the dealer has a 10-valued card underneath ("in the
hole").  A quick check of the odds yields this:  In a single
deck game, there are 16 ten-valued cards.  Assuming that you don't
see any other cards, including your own, the tens compose 16 out of 51
remaining cards after the dealer's Ace was removed.  For the insurance
bet to be a break-even bet, the hole card would have to be a ten 1 out
of 3 times, but 16/51 is only 1 in 3.1875.

The situation is often thought to be different when you have a Blackjack. 
The dealer is likely to offer you "even money" instead of the insurance
bet.  This is just the same old insurance bet with a simplification
thrown in.  Let's ignore the "even money" name, and look at what happens
when you insure a Blackjack.  Let's say you bet $10, and have a Blackjack. 

You would normally collect $15 for this, unless the dealer also has a blackjack,
in which case you push or tie.

Let's assume that the dealer has an Ace up, and you decide to take
insurance for the full amount, or $5.  Now, two things can happen:

   1)  The dealer has a Blackjack.  I tie with
the $10, but collect 2:1 on the $5 insurance bet for a total profit of
$10.

   2)  The dealer does not have Blackjack.  I lose
the $5, but collect $15 for my BJ.  Total profit, again $10.

In either case, once I make the insurance bet, I'm guaranteed a profit
of $10, or even money for my original bet.

So, casinos allow me to eliminate the insurance bet altogether, and
simply declare that I want even money for my blackjack when the dealer
has an Ace showing.
You're probably thinking that sounds like a pretty good deal. 
You're guaranteed a profit even if the dealer does have Blackjack. 
Just remember that the guaranteed profit comes at a price.  You'll
win more money in the long run by holding out for the $15, even though
you'll sometimes end up empty-handed.   Nonetheless, many players
are adamant that they prefer to take even money when offered.  Just
be aware that you're costing yourself money when you make that choice.
The basic strategy player should simply never take the insurance bet,
even the "even money" variety.  Card counters on the other hand can
often detect situations where more than one-third of the remaining cards
are ten-valued, and the bet is then a profitable one.  So, unless
you know the bet is favorable, just ignore it.


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Good luck!